Controlling LED lighting

[berkinet]

When controlling LED lighting with a solid-state relay (SSR) or dimmer, most LEDs, whether dimmable or not, never actually turn off. It seems enough current leaks through the solid-state control device to light up the LED, though not at full brilliance. Note, that I am talking about LED lamps controlled through an external device. This is not about LED lamps with built-in home automation technology, like the Phillips hue, etc.

My question is, has anyone come up with a simple means of fixing this problem? I figure I could use a relay between a SSR and the LED. But, what about the case of a dimmer?

Any ideas appreciated

[FlyingDiver]

If you use a dimmer switch with a neutral connection, this should not happen. It's the dimmers without neutral (line and load only) that have this problem.

In those cases, you can try one of these (or alternatives by other suppliers)

https://www.amazon.com/Lutron-LUT-MLC/dp/B01E9F084E/

These provide for a current path to power the control part of the dimmer without going through the LED fixture.

[berkinet]

If you use a dimmer switch with a neutral connection, this should not happen. It's the dimmers without neutral (line and load only) that have this problem...

Tell that to the people who sell the pond lighting controller, OASE. It has one dimmer and 3 on./off outlets and definitely has a neutral as it connects directly to 230vac (I am in France). BTW, the on/off outlets work fine, but I need them for my pump and filter. I have similar problems with some motion-detecting yard lights.

This is the product: https://www.oase.com/en/products-a-z/fa ... 26979.html

[FlyingDiver]

Yeah, that's just a poorly designed product, IMO. You can try putting load resisters in parallel with each light and see if that helps.

[berkinet]

You can try putting load resisters in parallel with each light and see if that helps.

So, are you saying across the neutral and Phase (line)? Any idea of some value to start with?

[FlyingDiver]

Yes, between the load line and neutral, in parallel with the actual LED load, after the dimmer. This one is 10K ohms for a 120V load:

https://www.amazon.com/PCS-Load-Resisto ... 01ES0AYU8/

I would guess double that for 240V, to keep the actual current the same.

[berkinet]

Yes, between the load line and neutral, in parallel with the actual LED load, after the dimmer. This one is 10K ohms for a 120V load:

https://www.amazon.com/PCS-Load-Resisto ... 01ES0AYU8/

I would guess double that for 240V, to keep the actual current the same.

Thanks, I probably have something in the electronics box. I'll let you know if it works.

[FlyingDiver]

Just make sure it's rated for the wattage. Most "electronics" resistors will fry at 240V.

[berkinet]

Just make sure it's rated for the wattage. Most "electronics" resistors will fry at 240V.

Of course. I have some high-wattage resistors from an earlier voltage presence project,.