DIY hardware, Indigo, and MQTT

Thanks for your reply.

Since I knew absolutely nothing about deCONZ, MQTT and Node-RED when I started this project to replace the Hue Bridge, I decided to go "baby steps".

For this reason, yes, I'm in fact using the deCONZ software. I even started the whole thing by downloading the deCONZ Raspian image from the CONBEE II page, and used this installation as the "base system". From there, every time I intended to add a new component, I imaged the micro SD card before ever attempting to add anything else software wise.

By reading about the zignee2mqtt.io project I did imagine I could do without the deCONZ software and some intermediary components, but to tell you the truth I was afraid to try such a progressive modus-operandi. Since I was having success at each step mentioned above, I just went with what I had working.

The good about the deCONZ software is that it has this nice web interface that allowed me to try each and every step by switching lights on/off in order to verify if the command was indeed received by the last installed component in the chain of software components.

Over time I may become a little more fluent in the above mentioned technologies and may try your approach.

Nice. Node red is a useful piece of software.

Are you using the deconz software?

You could simplify and remove node red and HOOBS and your Pi4 by using zigbee2mqtt on your Mac and passing the zigbee commands direct to indigo devices with the mqtt shims plugin.

Good Afternoon, @siclark,

I want to thank you for your message above. Your post triggered in me the will to re-do the setup by following your suggestions. I have now successfully rebuilt the whole thing as per the diagram below. I also completely eliminated the need for the second Raspberry Pi 3 that used to house my Razberry 2 z-wave interface. I now have both z-wave and Zigbee in a single Raspberry Pi 4, which helps simplify the setup and save a few bucks in energy costs.

Many thanks for your help.

PS: in the diagram below, the Z2m Hoobs plugin is still not deployed as of this writeup.

Sweet. And portable, too!

BTW, how do you like those lever wire nuts? I've been meaning to order some to give them a try. Based on some VERY cursory research, it looks like they're acceptable (code compliant) for mains power now.

Sorry I never saw this, Dave! The Wago lever nuts are awesome. They cost more, but they are really, really helpful for prototyping and generally ensuring good contact.

Sweet. And portable, too!

BTW, how do you like those lever wire nuts? I've been meaning to order some to give them a try. Based on some VERY cursory research, it looks like they're acceptable (code compliant) for mains power now.

Sorry I never saw this, Dave! The Wago lever nuts are awesome. They cost more, but they are really, really helpful for prototyping and generally ensuring good contact.

No problem--thanks for letting me know!

This isn’t incredibly original, but I am jazzed to have finally finished my first diy multisensors: PIR, temp, humidity, and pressure (via a BME280).

I got tired of using battery powered multi sensors that have timeouts and assorted failures that are very hard to debug.



I wanted an excuse to get more comfortable with programming inexpensive chips, and voila: ~$15 multisensors that talk to Indigo!





Hardware:
ESP32
OLED screen
BME280 sensor
PIR

IDE:
Arduino

Libraries:
NTPClient
PubSub
Adafruit oled and bme libraries
WiFi.h

Plugins:
MQTT Connector
MQTT Shims



I get really snappy updates now whenever movement is detected!

This is great. Could be even simpler/cheaper without the display (although I totally understand that coolness is a good enough reason for the display). Not withstanding the pictures you shared, are you running these with USB or battery power?

Nice work, I’m impressed, a lot fancier than my attempt to add a PIR to a Shelly I3.


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This is great. Could be even simpler/cheaper without the display (although I totally understand that coolness is a good enough reason for the display). Not withstanding the pictures you shared, are you running these with USB or battery power?

Thanks Dave, high praise!

You’re totally right about the oled. It is unnecessary if everything works right. But at $5.55 each, it’s a great way to debug problems as I can compare what the chip thinks and what my MQTT broker is receiving from the chip.

I plan to power them off of inexpensive wall worts. I will likely have them directly connected to the wall wart. I could use a standard AC to USB 5V adapter, though I might get creative and try to make a simple ACDC voltage thingamagigger.


This project was motivated by a long-term side project of mine to train a neural network using room occupancy data.I quickly became aware that standard environmental sensors were not a great data source for this due to basic problems that were typically a result of low batteries or a Z-wave matrix that was not optimized.

Trying to figure out the easiest, cheapest, durable way to deploy around 10 of these.

The only things that *have* to be on the front are the motion sensor and display, no? Couldn't you put the rest on the back?

Surely this is begging for a 3D case being printed, and yes with the motion sensor in front, maybe the screen on back so just visible for debug and all components on wires not board?

When you have decided your layout you can buy printed circuit boards from pcbway.com


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Agree that a custom 3D case is easy to design and print for it.


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Trying to figure out the easiest, cheapest, durable way to deploy around 10 of these.

If you can get the overall footprint under 2" x 3" and the screen + sensor within a 2.63" x 1.31" footprint, you could put it behind a single gang box and mount the display/sensor onto a standard outlet blank. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-1-Gang-Midway-Blank-Nylon-Wall-Plate-White-R52-0PJ13-00W/100356907 At $0.88 each, you can make bad cuts all day and not cry about it.

Or, If the bread board overhangs on the ends, maybe it could be mounted directly to the gang box and then just add a cover over it.

Then if you want it to be super-fancy, you could use a silicon epoxy mold and make your own cover:https://www.amazon.com/Pieces-Switch-Socket-Silicone-Casting/dp/B08LVX1658/

K2nA3.jpg (17.79 KiB) Viewed 3006 times

When you install the temp sensor too close to the esp it will show a 1-3 C higher value. So make sure it is not to close to the esp and is exposed to the external airflow.

Karl


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